Hair: Relaxers

2-3% sodium hyd. in a heavy cream base w alkaline ph of 11.5-14 lye , base, no base.
Faster processing time:better for resistant hair:or course
DISadvantages: irritates scalp may cause severe damage:strict time:base application needed or recommended

4-6% thio acid with 1% ammonium hydroxidr and an 8.5 to 9.5 ph level. cream base is also usully added
better for less resistant hair:more control with time to process:better for fragile , fine or tinted hair

disadvantage:not for tight curled hair

Reduces curl in hair by changing its molecular structure. the relaxing product is applied ot the hair and hold he hair in a straight position while processing. in addition a smoothing or pressing action is applied ot the softened hair causeing the hair to relax and straighten further.
the neutralizing step uses a neutralizing shampoo or lotion to reduce sweling casued by alkaline formulas this chem change causes the hair to be held in the new straight configeration.

Potash(wood ashes) lye and white potatoes and lard

1) curl diffusion: chemical blow out to loosen or relax tightly curled hair patterns by approx 50% of natural shape.
2) virgin relaxer: used on virgin natural hair to striaghten up to 85%
3) a retouch relaxer: new growth only to match previously relaxed hair
4) zonal relaxer: only selected areas are relaxed (nape)

Strong alkaline from 11.5 to 14 designed to straighten tightly curled hair. also go by lye relaxers. no base relaxers are gentler to hair and scalp but still contain chemicals. no lye means sodium hydroxide is not active ingredient

Reducing agent in it that causes hair to soften and swell. hydrogen n disulfide bonds are affected during process. disulfide bonds break btw two sulfur atoms in the cystine amino acids. the neutralizing prrocess causes the split cystine amino acids to rejoin.

Mild (delicate) used on healthy color treated n fine hair processes 15 mins
regular(normal)curly- med textured hair up to 20 mins
and super (resistant)-tightly curled coarse texture or resistant hair up to 25 mins

Active alkaline agent(sodium potasium lithium or guanidine hydroxide), oil( that protect hair), and water. these control the relaxers effectiveness and efficianetcy

Chemical involves: sectioning the hair, applying the relaxer product
physical stage involves: smoothing or combing,timing and testing, and rinsing blotting and neutrilizing

Straight has round
wavy has oval
curly and tightly curly has elliptical

Porosity, elasticity, texture, density,

Two ways:
1) for curl defusion is by visual perception to know when curl desire is achieved.during combing stage watch for hair to spring back if too tight additional combing is needed.
2) for all other relaxing services the test is: known as the comb test.with the spine or back of the comb. smooth eccess productfrom scalp area. press back of comb against scalp area to determine degree of relaxation. if theres min indentation occurs or curl pattern reverts more smoothing may need to be applied. if strong indentation occurs the hair has reached relaxation. rinse and blot hair.

Id existing texture pattern:....wavy curly tight curl
determine desired texture pattern:....straight wavy curly
analyse hair compotency....porosity..elasticity
select appropriate relaxer.....curl diffusion,virgin,retouch,zonal
choose relaxer product ......thio or sodium..mild reg super
preform relaxer service